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Ear accessories "Kinsai Collection" wearing Kyoto's traditional craft "Kinsai"

renacnatta's "Kinsai Collection" is a collection of ear accessories that uses Kyoto's traditional craft, gold color, on Italian silk.

In collaboration with Natsuko Ueda, a gold painter who works in Kyoto, we have incorporated gold paint into fashionable ear accessories that can be easily worn.

The "Kinsai Collection" contains the desire to "ensure that as many people as possible know the beauty of gold and enjoy it."

In the background, I want to spread the value of Kinsai more, and I want to do something about the current situation, which is steadily declining despite being a beautiful technique.

This time, we will introduce the lineup and charm of the "Kinsai Collection" and the thoughts of Mr. Ueda, the artist.

"Kinsai Collection" to familiarize you with the traditional crafts of Kyoto

The "Kinsai Collection" is an item that can be easily worn as an ear accessory, using Kyoto's traditional gold art.

The collaboration with Mr. Ueda, who works as a kinsai craftsman and kinsai artist in Kyoto, started with the thought that ``it is a waste that kinsai is only used for kimono'' .

Kinsai was originally applied to high-class kimonos such as furisode and tomesode. However, if it is a small item called an accessory, you can wear the beauty more casually and more closely.

In addition, since gold color is a traditional craft applied to dyed silk fabric, it is a technique that goes well with Italian silk, where Okochi, the representative of Renacnatta, lived. We thought that by combining gold and Italian deadstock silk, we could create jewelry that had never existed before .

The "Kinsai Collection" includes small hemispheres in white or black that are painted with gold to look like jewelry, as well as items that are painted in gold to match Italian silk patterns. All gold colors are hand-painted by Mr. Ueda one by one.

Kinsai Collection

Series such as “Nero” and “Bianco” are freehand painted on plain Italian silk. Originally, the gold color is drawn according to the pattern of the kimono, but it draws out the charm of the gold color with a free idea that is not too bound by it.

In addition, “Rosa” and “Viola”, which are made of beautiful pink and purple Italian silk with gold paint, have a pop pattern unique to handwriting that shines well on the fabric that looks like a light watercolor painting. There are two types of gold and silver, and each design allows you to enjoy a different beauty.

​​Small and delicate patterns drawn with glue. In order to create a discreet and elegant shine, the foil is selected according to the design, from glittering foils to subdued matte glitters.

By carefully pasting the foil onto the glue, the only one in the world, the "Kinsai Collection", which has an attractive plump three-dimensional effect, is completed.

In addition, if the gold color of the purchased item has peeled off or has become dull, we can also repair it. You can contact us from the Renac Natta official website.

What is Kinsai? Traditional techniques that add brilliance to Kyo-Yuzen

The main part of this item , gold color, is a traditional craft technique that is said to have been established from the Azuchi-Momoyama period to the early Edo period . Also known as "Kindami", dyed silk fabric is glued with gold or silver foil, gold powder, etc.

gold color applied to kimono

In addition, even if it is called gold color, there are various processing techniques. Tsutsugaki, oshihaku, surihaku, and sunako techniques are used according to the purpose.

Among them , the technique used in the "Kinsai Collection" is called Tsutsugaki . In tsutsugaki, lines are drawn with the glue that comes out of the cylinder, and after the glue dries, gold leaf is covered. When the gold leaf is peeled off, the gold sticks only to the glued part, so fine patterns can be applied.

All of the Kinsai techniques require a high level of skill, and it takes many years to master them.

However, the demand for yarn-dyed textiles and Nishijin textiles has decreased due to the shift away from kimonos, and along with that, it is steadily declining. About 50 years ago, the annual production of Kyo Yuzen was about 16.5 million rolls, but today it is said to have decreased to 300,000 to 400,000 rolls.

At the same time, the number of craftsmen who apply gold color is decreasing. Fewer craftsmen means less gold leaf used, and fewer gold leaf wholesalers. Due to this vicious cycle, traditional crafts are on the decline.

Among them, it is said that there are old craftsmen who cannot find a successor, and there are craftsmen who quit during their own generation because they could not get a wage commensurate with their skills.

Don't let Kinsai end in our generation

Under such circumstances, Renakunatta teamed up with Mr. Ueda, who is a gold painter and painter in Kyoto.

Based on the desire to change the work style of craftsmen, which has been taken for granted until today, I have launched Kinsai Ueda in Kyoto, where many long-established shops are crowded, with my mother, who was a Kinsai hired craftsman.

Mr. Ueda did not work as a kinsai craftsman from the beginning, but previously worked at a tartan check specialty store.

Originating in Scotland, tartans act like a family coat of arms, symbolizing a clan or family. While learning the meaning of each pattern and name, he became interested in Japanese traditions and things that made him feel his identity.

The background to this was the presence of my mother, who had been employed as a gold painter since I was born. Kimonos with family crests and traditional patterns have been familiar to Mr. Ueda since he was a child.

Before long, Mr. Ueda began to have doubts about the working conditions of craftsmen who did not receive a fair wage despite their special skills .

"Rather than being hired, why don't we do it ourselves?"

I called out to my mother at the timing when I thought about retiring. Mr. Ueda is a disciple of his mother, and the two of them launch Kinsai Ueda. At first, my mother, who was a hired gold painter, was reluctant to become independent. Even so, Mr. Ueda wanted to work at a fair price, and had the idea that it should be .

Mr. Ueda's personal goal is to "earn an income commensurate with his skills and live a normal life for craftsmen and artists." In order to do that, he says, he must someday have his own brand.

“Having a brand is more like a mission than a dream of mine. If I don’t do it, I won’t be able to connect to the next generation. Mottainai" At Kinsai Ueda, as a job selling skills, we are working on repairing and custom-made kimonos that are not bound by Japanese patterns. Occasionally, we also produce soft patterns and eco-bags that do not use foil.

“We are a kinsai shop, not a kimono shop.”

Mr. Ueda said, "If we cut off the beautifully shining gold color, it will be a loss to Japanese fashion culture." ”, We are expanding the range of activities in various fields.

The “Kinsai Collection”, a collaboration with Mr. Ueda, is now one of the items that symbolize Renac Natta. With her, there is also a desire to make a dress filled with gold someday.

With ear accessories as a trigger, we can help spread the wonderful technique of gold coloring to the world. We are very happy and happy about it.

Kinsai, a beauty that is not bound by Japanese style

"Kinsai Collection", which Ueda's freehand and beautiful gold coloring. Accessories that are said to be "cute" and "beautiful" on SNS are full of charm that is not bound by the world of "Wa".

Mr. Ueda himself is always aware that he should not be caught up in harmony. Originally, he was involved in freehand gold painting, but through the “Kinsai Collection” he felt that drawing freehand was his strength.

“I am very grateful to be able to see the reaction of those who have had few opportunities to touch gold, and I am happy that it is fresh.”

Mr. Ueda's gold painting on Italian silk is a departure from the concept that "gold painting is a technique applied to kimono." It shines as "Kinsai" that is not bound by genre .

It may be said that the radiance is the beauty of traditional crafts that has changed from the past to the present and will continue into the future.

“Kinsai is a highly flexible and fun processing technique that can look like metal, embroidery, or jewels, depending on the method of expression.”

Mr. Ueda, who creates freehand painting-like gold painting, talks about it. Kinsai is a traditional Japanese decorative process that is essential for ceremonial wear and festive wear. If you wear that elegant gorgeousness and glitter, it may be a little special day.

"My job is to make someone's feelings sparkle and shine."

Renakunatta's "Kinsai Collection", which emits a unique brilliance, is filled with Mr. Ueda's thoughts on his work.

One of the attractions of gold is that it shines differently depending on the type of leaf, technique, weather, and location .

Ear accessories that color your ears with different expressions on that day and at that place. We hope that you will take the “Kinsai Collection” in your hands and experience its beauty.


Written by: Shiho Nagata
Editing: Eri Yoshida

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